By Barbara J. Nosek

When it’s hot, it’s hot. When it’s cold . . . ahh . . . it’s still hot. Talking chocolate.

There must be a special place in the hierarchy of flirty foods for one that remains passionate all across the temperature spectrum. Consider the candy bar from the freezer, the coffee table box of chocolates, melty squares on s’mores, hot fudge atop way too butterfatty ice cream and a steaming cup of cocoa.

Through it all, chocolate rules and that has pretty much held true ever since the Olmecs first discovered the cocoa fruit in Mexico in the mists of BC. Of course that tale would be a lot more romantic if the tip-off hadn’t been rats indulging, but no matter.

As its fame spread through this continent and others, so did its many joyous incarnations, from beverages and confections to medicines and beauty products. And, today, perhaps nowhere is it more celebrated than right here in Las Vegas.

There’s a three-way boost to that claim. First, resident here is Chef Jean-Philippe Maury whose signature ingredient is commemorated in a unique triple chocolate fountain that marks the entrance to his boffo patisserie in Bellagio, where he also serves as executive pastry chef.

Choco-maven Maury has brought home the gold time and again, either as a participant or coach, in the prestigious national and international Team Pastry Competitions. One of his exclusive creations is a study in indulgence, intermingling hazelnuts, almonds and a medley of chocolates.

Second, our own Vincent Pilon, executive pastry chef at Mandalay Bay, heads to Paris this month to represent the United States in the World Chocolate Masters Championship. Pilon already has a full trophy case thanks to his penchant for seducing not only the palate, but also the eye with the artistry of his chocolate sculptures.

Third is the number of restaurants here that pay homage to chocolate year ‘round or with specials in October, which is designated National Chocolate Month. Take your sweetheart (and sweet tooth) to Bertolini’s for the Spectacular Chocolate Torta and the Godiva Chocolate Martini, to Trevi for the chocolate and raspberry Coppa Cioccolato, to Fleur de Lys for the Chocolate Feast, or to Speidini for the intense Chocolate Sorbet.

Or, just tuck in at home and celebrate this special month with your own bowl of decadence. Do fondue with great dippers, top a slice of cake with drained pears and hot fudge, layer up individual trifles with all your favorites — crumbled Oreos, chocolate pudding (heck, yes, ready-made), chocolate chips, chocolate-covered nuts, whipped topping (chocolate if you can find it), and crown it all with a liqueur-filled candy.

Is there perhaps an overnight guest at the breakfast table? Sprinkle lots of cocoa on the plates before plopping on the pancakes or waffles.

Throughout its rich history, chocolate has also built on its rep as a restorative. So, it turns out this actually is a before and after tale . . .