Pleasure for the palate is usually an affair involving what’s on the plate. But not always. Sometimes it’s what’s in the glass.

Just ask Kerry Wald, bartender extraordinaire at Fiamma inside the MGM Grand. The native Las Vegan who grew up in the hospitality industry has almost magical instincts in the artistry of combining spirits         Of course the Fiamma design conspires to set the tone for a sensuous experience. Warm woods, sometimes coaxed into soft-edged sculptures, play off of candleglow that is in turn redoubled by deftly placed glass accents. This is just the place to settle in, sit back and sip to your heart’s content. And Wald stands ready to make sure that your glass holds something wickedly memorable.

After accumulating creds at other high profile venues in town, Wald was there on Day 1 when Fiamma opened and he helped the new restaurant gain a solid rep for excellence in mixing classic cocktails. But then came the second year . . .

That’s when, with management’s blessing, Wald gave his creative gifts full rein. And thus was born, among other innovations, his “dessert cocktails.” Not cocktails that pair with desserts. Cocktails that are dessert.

Some were purely children of his own inspiration. Others came about when patrons would order something that elsewhere might be considered “the usual.” What flavors do you really like, he would ask them. And the answer would translate into a spectacular new sipping sensation.

The response might be peanut butter, or white chocolate, or mango. No problem.

One fellow even challenged him to base his beverage on caviar. Still no problem.

The overall result is now a roster of awesome dessert libations. One such current offering is the Fiamma cocktail known as the “Tiramisu Martini.” What makes it sing is the melding of Stoli vanilla, espresso, crème de cacao and whipped mascarpone cream. Another is the “Hazelnut Truffle.” Nestled into this glass is a blend of Frangelico, hazelnut syrup and Stoli vanilla. The garnish for this latter drink serves as a clue to Wald’s success in achieving mastery in the cocktail realm. He not only takes a chef-like approach to mixology, layering flavor upon flavor, but also uses first class foodie ingredients. And so for the “Truffle,” it’s nothing less than Valrhona chocolate.

That overall game plan may explain the appeal of the one signature creation that is, yes, really, really, totally worth a trip to the place if only for it and it alone. And that’s, oh my, oh my, the one called in reverent tones, “Raspberry Cheesecake.”

A celestial intermingling of Stoli vanilla, Chambord, raspberry jam, whipped cream and a “secret ingredient,” it should come with a warning label. This is just so decadently delicious, so luxuriously smoooooooth, that multiples are a distinct and dangerous possibility.

Well, heck, go for it. MGM may well have your ‘guestroom’ available.